Glacier National Park is one of those places Jess and I have together dreamed of visiting. Because of living in Maine, traveling cross country to hike in a place like Glacier while working full-time and owning a business and apartment buildings was complicated. As soon as we began traveling full-time in our Leisure Travel Van, Glacier became one of our priorities. This summer we had the good fortune to explore the beauty Glacier National Park has to offer. We booked a few weeks at a commercial RV park just outside of the St. Mary lake gate in the town of St. Mary, MT. This was the perfect gateway for us to explore the entire park.
There are several entrance gates to different areas of the park all with different expectations of timed-entry permits. An important point to understand is a timed entry pass does not determine if you can enter the park, it only dictates the time which you can enter the park. This is a very import distinction. The park is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, however between the hours of 6am-3pm at certain gates a limited amount of timed- entry permits are available. Without a permit if you want to enter the park it has to be before or after that time, which is allowed.
At the time of our visit a timed-entry pass at the St. Mary gate as well as the Two Medicine lake area was not required providing us a vast amount of exploring with very little pre-planning necessary. However, this does not mean exploring the park is easy. Traffic and trailhead parking is complicated at best.
Going to the Sun Road
Above is the East tunnel which cuts through Piegan mountain. It is 408′ long and was one of the most difficult sections of the road to build. The infamous Going to the Sun Road we learned is the primary road through the park. It travels just under fifty miles from East to west through the park, with a high elevation of 6646′ at Logan Pass. Many of the most popular trails and sights are accessible from this one road. It is an incredibly engineered mountain pass, with tunnels and bridges all built to “show off” the wonders of the park. It took almost twenty years to build and is considered one of the most scenic drives in the country.
There are vehicle restrictions on parts of the road, only allowing vehicles less than 21′ long with additional height and width requirements. We explored with our tow vehicle “Alice”. However if you do not have a tow vehicle and exceed the limits there are shuttle services and tour opportunities within the park. We have driven many mountain passes at this point in our journey, and I would consider this one of the easier ones. On that note there were many white knuckled drivers we saw trepidatiously proceeding along the road.
There are frequent stops and view points along the route to see glaciers, mountains, and glacial lakes. The incredible picture of the bald eagle resting on Wild Goose Island, is visible from a pull-off on the going to the sun road. We also saw Jackson glacier and many beautiful waterfalls. Some of these waterfalls were just a few feet from the road, an incredible sight.
Logan Pass
Logan Pass is the high point of the road and a must visit place. It is the location of an informative visitors center, nature walk and some of the most popular trails in the park. In addition, some of the best views in the park are found here. All of these wonderful things lead to terrible parking conditions. When we drove by Logan Pass towards the west gate, the lot was closed because it was full. We decided to continue our journey and visit on our return trip back over the pass.
We were in luck on our return, the closed sign was down and there was no longer a park employee blocking entrance to the parking area. However, it still required circling the lot many times and stalking people we thought would be leaving before we found a spot. As we expected this to be our only visit to Logan Pass we explored everything it had to offer.
This awesome view is looking towards the western side of the park from the top of Logan Pass. To the right is the going to the sun road as it snakes its way down the valley. The Highland trail is one of the most popular trails in the park and follows the valley, beginning from the parking area at Logan Pass. Another popular trail starting in Logan Pass is the Hidden Lake trail. These two trails are very different and exemplify the diversity of the park.
Three Falls Trailhead
There are many ways to access the three falls trail. We decided to park at Sun Point and hike out to Virginia Falls and double back along the same route. This out and back route is about six and a half miles round trip with approximately eight hundred feet of elevation gain. It is a moderate trail with great footing and incredible views. To see our video of the hike click this link.
Baring Falls
Baring Falls is the first falls on the trail. The falls drop about 25′ over ledges. The falls can also be reached from the Siyeh Pass Trail.
St.Mary Falls
St Mary’s falls is one of the most popular in the park, and was the second on our journey. The falls are multi-tiered and about thirty-five feet tall. We decided to eat our lunch while we were watching some kids jump into the lower falls (not pictured). As we enjoyed the sights and talking with other hikers, a couple of well fed chipmunks orchestrated a sneak attack. It took us a couple minutes to get them away from our packs and convince them we were not giving up any of our food. Fortunately, these were the most aggressive animals we met in Glacier!
Virginia Falls
Our favorite water fall of the hike was our last, Virginia Falls. After hiking past St. Mary’s Falls the trail begins to climb steadily. There were several beautiful unnamed falls along the trail to Virginia falls all worthy of their own names! These cascades were so impressive we were questioning ourselves, if we had arrived. Finally we rounded a turn in the trail and there was no mistaking we were there. A massive fifty foot, multi-tiered water fall stood in front of us.
There were many people who had formed a makeshift line, waiting their turn to take a picture in front of the falls. Jess and I jumped in line to take our turn navigating the slippery surfaces of the rocks below the falls. After a few pictures. and another snack it was time for us to turn around and hike back to our car.
Otokomi Lake Trail
Otokomi Lake trail had mixed reviews on Alltrails, but it turned out to be one of our favorite hikes. The calendar on the RV wall said August, but in Glacier National Park that means nothing. Because of latitude and elevation snow and cold weather are possible in any month of the year. Cold and biting winds were what we woke up to the day we hiked to Otokomi Lake. We donned our hat and gloves and packed extra warm clothes in our pack then began the eleven mile round trip hike. Our total elevation gain would be about 2500′ and top out at 6530′
The trail starts from the store at the Rising Sun Campground on the eastern side of the park. The wind was ridiculous and we could not hear a thing, not optimal conditions when hiking in grizzly territory. The blowing wind was directly in our face carrying our scent and our sounds behind us. The objective when hiking in bear country is to be loud and not be a surprise. We diligently “sang” all the songs we could think of (mixed tape will be out soon!) and faithfully yelled out “Hey Bear” before every turn in the trail. As we entered new meadows we took time to scan the areas above and below the trail for wildlife.
The trail traverses through the valley along Rose Creek. There are multiple beautiful waterfalls and access points to the creek along the way. About a mile into the hike we met a couple who had started hiking before us and had already turned around because of the wind. Jess and I briefly discussed turning around, but we were well prepared with plenty of food, water, and clothing for any conditions we might encounter. We decided to hike on.
Hiking Through
After several miles of unrelenting climbing through alpine meadows and thick evergreen forests. We came to this incredible scree field, with amazing views. Scree is broken chunks of rocks of various sizes and stability. I love hiking through scree fields, they are common in high alpine areas. They have a way of making me feel alive and transporting me to back to some of my favorite places.
However, when I did not see the lake, my heart sunk, I was tired and ready to reach our goal. I let my thoughts take me out of the game. I took a few steps, then a rest, then a few more steps. Just a few weeks before this hike I was laying in a hospital bed in Minnesota not knowing what was happening to me. I was doubting my abilities now and ready to throw in the towel. But, I made it out of the hospital and we made it to Glacier and I was going to make it to the lake. I was determined and wanted to succeed, I linked my steps together and continued at a steady pace keeping my thoughts on the goal.
Otokomi lake, it felt like an eternity to me. It was my first strenuous hike after a scary multi-week stay in the hospital after having strep or staph toxic shock (they never determined an initial infection) and further complications from reactive arthritis. I thought the goal of this hike was to reach the lake. However, the goal turned out to be for me to begin the emotional healing process. I realized I still had a long road ahead, not only to regain my physical strength but to also take back my energy and zest for life. What a day!
Fishing at Glacier
Fishing at Glacier National Park is an adventure. We have been carrying our fishing poles with us on our full-time RV journey, but we have used them very little. As full-time explorers we pay top dollar in each state to obtain a license, which we can only use in that state. We were excited when we learned fishing is allowed in the park. I’m not going to attempt to explain all of the different rules. A brochure can be picked up at the entrance gates as well as found on line.
We fished at several locations at St. Mary’s lake, we use artificial lures and practice catch and release. There are many fish which can be harvested, it’s just our choice to release. Unfortunately, between the wild winds and frigid weather we were not very successful catching fish.
However, while I was standing here under the bridge casting and trying all my lures. A black bear ran from the trees on the right across the sand bar and to my side of the bank. It happened so quickly, I could not grab my camera to snap a picture. I slowly moved back under the bridge and decided it was time to pick another location.
If you love fishing it is another amazing activity that can be done in Glacier National Park.
Lake McDonald
We visited the Lake McDonald Lodge and Lake McDonald the largest lake in the park on our first trip across the Going to the Sun Road. Traveling from east to west through the park the lodge is the turn around point. If we would have continued to drive we would reach the Apgar gate. Going through the gate would have required a timed-entry permit to re-enter. There is a longer drive along the outskirts of the park, which would return to our RV park.
The lake is about ten miles long, more than a mile wide and 472′ deep. It was formed by glaciers and erosion. McDonald Creek flows through the lake and eventually into the Flathead River.
Lake McDonald Lodge was built in 1913 in a Swiss chalet style. Many of the rooms still possess that original rustic style free from TV’s and air conditioning. Upgrades over the years have provided a variety of modern amenities and lodging styles. There is a lounge, restaurant, pizzeria, general store, and gift shop.
Stepping into the main lodge is a feast for the eyes. I felt like I had been transported back in time. We picked a sofa in the loft section overlooking the main lobby and just sat there watching the activity. A wonderful place to read a book or just relax. The main lobby leads directly to a deck, then to the lake. Kids were playing, people were wading in the lake, and others were in their kayaks.
I think that was my biggest take-away from this lodge. There was room for everyone to explore or relax however they chose. Surrounded by magnificent trees and crisp glacial filled lakes, it is an amazing place.
Glacier’s Red Bus Tours
The Red Bus tours are a treasured part of the park’s history. They provide visitors with an option to view the park in a historic 1930’s bus with roll back tops. There are many tours to various parts of the park available at different prices and pick-up locations. Including Lake McDonald, as well as other lodges and even commercial parks outside to the National Park boundaries.
These busses provide a wonderful alternative to driving in the park. If your RV is too big to fit in the park or you just do not like driving in exposed mountain environments, this could be the answer for you to enjoy the park. Reservations and information is found on Glacier National Park lodges website via the link above.
Grinnell Glacier
Our hike to Grinnell Glacier, one of the more well know and frequently visited glaciers in the park, began with not one but two boat rides. As you can see in the photo above the day started off cold mid thirties and a small breeze off the water. It snowed above five thousand feet in the park yesterday, several inches in many locations, which led to the closing of the Going to the Sun Road today. We are fortunate to have snagged the last two tickets available for the trip up Swift Current lake and then Lake Josephine.
Hiking to the Grinnell Glacier does not require taking the boat, trails on both sides of the lake will lead to the glacier. However, I recommend at least taking one boat ride within the park. It is an amazing experience. The women who captained our boats were a wealth of knowledge. They talked about history of the boats and the park, as well as geology and interesting fire history.
Our first boat left from the Many glacier lodge and traversed Swift Current Lake. At the other end of the lake we all departed the vessel and began our hike to the next glacial lake. The route was mostly paved and good footing, however it did climb up steeply over a sizable hill of at least hundred feet or so. At an elevation around 5000′ many people were definitely winded. We boarded our next boat and were greeted by another female captain, with equally as much knowledge and information as our first.
The Trail
Our hike began when we disembarked, got our bearings, and began the assent to Grinnell Glacier look out. The trail is about twelve miles long round trip and gains over two thousand feet in elevation. Taking the two boats shortens the trip by about three miles. The trail quickly becomes steep and in a short time we were rewarded by the incredible colors of Grinnell lake. It was also extremely busy, which made keeping pace almost impossible. In my opinion this made the hike more difficult.
The trail traversed along the steep slope of Mt. Grinnell, it was narrow in many spots with a significant risk of injury if one were to slip off the edge. Therefore passing people going up and down usually required one group to stop to wait for the other. We made the assumption there were many additional hikers on the already busy trail today, because of the Going to the Sun Road closure.
We were presented with another unanticipated challenge. The snow we received yesterday was melting in today’s sun. At first it was creating beautiful glistening slopes and small amounts of water were flowing down and across the trail in some areas. As in the above picture.
This photo is the final picture we took before we turned around short of the lookout and the end of the trail. As we continued to climb the stream crossings were becoming big with much more water than typical. We stopped at a particularly difficult crossing where many people were off trail climbing high on the slopes looking for a way around, a dangerous and not recommended idea.
Decisions
As Jess and I were discussing our options a hiker, who began hiking earlier in the day, was navigating his way down the trail back to our side of the crossing. He was informing everyone how many more crossings there would be ahead to reach the viewing area. Also, how much more water there was now in this crossing than there had been just an hour before when he first crossed it. As we watched, what I would describe as a similar situation to a flash flood was being created by snow melt in the high mountains above us.
We decided we had a beautiful hike and did not want to risk getting stuck on the other side having to wait for the water to recede. It’s not the first time we have been thwarted by rising waters and had to turn around. If you spend a lot of time in the mountains, especially big mountains with high elevations. There will always be obstacles, the key is to learn which obstacles to overcome and which to head their warning. We never like turning around but have done it many times in a variety of situations.
Being safe and getting out of the woods under our own power is always our top priority. Turning around is not a failure, just an opportunity to hike an incredible trail again on another day, with different circumstances. As we descended we were amazed with the volume of water that was now flowing down and across the trail. This affirmed we had made the best decision for us. We were not alone in our choice, many others were doing the same.
A Snap-Shot
A few of the animals we saw on our visit to Glacier. Both big horn sheep, pictured above, as well as mountain goats. Grizzlies from the car and out on a trail. Black bear fishing and sightseeing. Several deer along trails. A heard of elk foraging in a meadow. Bald eagles, hawks, many varieties of jays, ptarmigans, ducks, and of course ravens. I’m sure we saw more. The most ferocious animal we encountered was well fed chipmunks, who were aggressively trying to steal our snacks!
A snap shot was intended to be a quick look at the trails we hiked in Glacier National Park. As I put the information together I realized I had too much for one piece. Shortly Glacier National Park – A snap shot part 2 will be available. I hope this information is informative and inspires you to visit the park. If visiting is not in your future, I hope you enjoyed these reading about our experience on the trails as much as we did. Make sure you subscribe to the page and on Mondays you will receive a link to the new video or blog of the week. Thank-you for reading.
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